Summer at the Lake House, Daylesford
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Summer at the Lake House, Daylesford
Regional dining in Daylesford has made some dramatic developments since the opening of this fairytale retreat some 30 years ago. Anji Bignell writes.
If you are after old-fashioned elegance that delivers family-owned hospitality, then that balance can be sought at Lake House.
Owned and run by executive chef Alla Wolf-Tasker and her husband, resident artist Allan, it has been no mean feat overseeing the two-hatted restaurant and multi-award winning hotel accommodation and spa. In fact, Alla pays particular attention to developing relationships with local producers (she launched a food group called the Daylesford Macedon Produce in the 1990s that focuses on biodynamic and organic standards of farming within the area), who she then promotes, and uses the fresh produce straight from the farm into her own kitchen.
There are 33 rooms and suites available in a waterfront setting or, if you are like me, you can settle into the lodge-style retreat atop the hill, with a large, sunlit living area beautifully decorated with a selection of nick-nacks, artworks and antique furniture that has all been personally and tastefully collected by Alla and her daughter (also marketing director of Lake House). If there is anything you should do first when staying at the retreat, it’s to pour yourself a nice glass of the house wine and step into the most divine claw foot bath filled with rose petals and bath salts as the sunlight peaks through the surrounding white shutters and an aromatic candle and chandelier lightly warm the room. It is truly the most blissful experience.
The kitchen is well equipped and modern, and generously replenished with homemade biscuits, local honey, organic teas and fresh fruit every day. It’s like playing make-believe in the summer house you never had in the Hamptons, only with the added benefit of room service and an in-house selection of the best regional wines on offer.
My favourite time of the day is breakfast and as I strolled down to the 40-seater restaurant (which is only open to the public on weekends), I was able to take in the tranquil body of water below and the Wombat State Forest beyond. The restaurant is once again full of light and an extravagant buffet encompasses the majority of the room. I order my coffee and help myself to the smoked salmon, homemade chutneys, preserves, fresh bagels, charcuterie and local poached fruits on display.
I’m informed by my host, Larissa Wolf-Tasker, of all the winemakers, growers, producers and restaurants dotting the landscape just within the Daylesford area and the Macedon ranges – and there are many specialty producers to choose from. So I mark them on my little map and take a drive out to see what is on offer. From the Trewhella Farm for its berries, herbs and bush foods to the roadside potatoes, the Herbal Lore liqueurs (an interesting tasting experience from a most informative host), Kyneton Olive Oil, cider from the Daylesford Cider Company, delicious charcuterie from Istra Smallgoods, freshly baked scones with homemade jam and cream from the Wombat Hill House (also owned and run by Alla and her team, and quite frankly the best scones I have ever tasted!) and the wine from Captain Creeks Organic Wines.
After a day of meeting and greeting producers, I had built up an appetite and headed back to my room to get ready for dinner at the restaurant, which, as I arrived, was abuzz with locals and out-of-towners who had come from near and far to experience what has been touted as one of the best regional restaurants in Australia.
My starter of tuna sashimi, sea lettuce, buckwheat, avocado, bonito aioli, nori and mojama was followed with the poached bass, jamon, artichoke puree, leek mussel chorizo vinaigrette, Bourride and then topped off with a dessert of peanut butter, black sesame, caramel and banana all smashed onto my plate. The simple, fresh produce with the innovative design and flavours married with the style and exuberance of the restaurant makes this a unique dining experience.
Being able to source the best seasonal produce locally, explains why the food at Lake House tastes so amazing – the quality is what has put Daylesford and the surrounding regions on the map – and working with the best produce is clearly a recipe for success.
Lake House also has the wonderful Salus Spa offering signature treatments, wellness retreats and cooking classes with Alla herself.
For more information visit: www.lakehouse.com.au
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