Royal Mail Hotel, Grampians
Search
Royal Mail Hotel, Grampians
In a sleepy hollow of country Victoria
resides a rustic, colonial charm combined
with a first-class dining experience.
Many regional towns across Australia have a ‘Royal Mail Hotel’ taking pride of place as their local watering hole. However, this particular Royal Mail Hotel – nestled at the foothills of the Grampian ranges in the small town of Dunkeld, Victoria – comes from a very different ilk than your average hotel and bistro.
Drenched in exquisite minimalist style – evident from its three-hatted restaurant and art deco façade – combined with the rich Victorian history of its Mt Sturgeon cottages just a small drive from the hotel, it stirs up secrets from a bygone era. I arrived in the cloak of night when the stillness, albeit the ‘thump, thump’ noise of jumping kangaroos, enveloped the converted shearers’ accommodation and created a sense of space that made me feel like I had just come home.
I had left my urban dwelling some three hours beforehand, driving through the nooks and crannies of Victoria’s far west, watching the dusk unfold into night and drinking in the great beauty of the Grampians towering silently up ahead as I entered the small town. The Royal Mail Hotel is the brainchild of barrister and businessman Allan Myers, who has preened his property to include cottages, hotel rooms, a kitchen garden, and restaurant and bistro on side.
After a quick change into my finest attire, it was time for my host to pick me up and drive me to the restaurant for the 10-course degustation matched to wine from their award-winning cellar. It has been touted as one of the top 10 restaurants of Australia, among other awards – a kudos well deserved by executive chef Dan Hunter and his team, who deliver fresh, unique and sustainable produce right from their own organic garden onto the plate.
As I nestled into my seat for the night, I was given widescreen views of the kitchen – the staff working at a fast pace, but with little fluster or fuss, producing beautifully crafted dishes, delivered to my table in a timely manner.
To begin with – a uniquely rustic starter of rice paper, finger lime and salmon roe accompanied by salt and pepper squab chicken crisp. I was encouraged to use my hands and nibble at the soft, melt-in-your-mouth flesh of the squab chicken – at first a strange recommendation for a fine-dining restaurant, but an interesting introduction to food at a ‘grass roots’ level. All washed down with a French ‘quaff’: Francis Boulard Les Murgiers Blanc de Noir.
In my opinion, the most notable dish throughout the unfolding dining experience was the local eel and bone marrow, eggplant and pickled vegetables, rounded off with the ripe fruit flavours and peppery notes of the Yarra Valley 2008 Gembrook Hill Pinot Noir. It’s amazing how a story can unfold on the palate, as the textures of pickled vegetables merge with the rich creaminess of the marrow. Even organic produce bought from the store is nothing compared to food straight from the ground.
I welcomed in my second-last course with a glass of light 2011 Dupont Cidre Reserve, served with a parsnip, apple and blueberry, fennel and crème fraiche – the flesh of half a parsnip dug out and the rest fried to host the filling on top. Absolutely divine!
The last course of milk and berries, quandong cooked with roses was a beautifully presented piece, and so perfectly matched with the delicately sweet 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Mr’ Moscatel Mountain Wine. I loved the simple aperitif of steeped lemon verbena leaves, picked straight from the garden, poured from a beautiful, clear teapot in front of me – the perfect end to a wonderful evening.
The next morning, I awoke to find the Grampian ranges staring down at me from the back door of my cottage. I sat and sipped on a cup of tea, wishing I could have stayed a bit longer, but after the Kitchen Garden Tour (which comes highly recommended), I was on my way back to the big smoke.
Royal Mail Hotel is a delightful getaway from the fast-paced grind of city life. A scenic three-hour drive from Melbourne, it is worth staying for at least a few days to enjoy the food, impeccable service and the breathtaking views. Visit royalmail.com.au to make a booking.
Photos courtesy of The Royal Mail hotel.